Extravagasia

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Massage...Boom-Boom!...Massage Boom Boom!?!?!

Tiffany and I have done nearly everything together on this trip. As boring and over-involved as that might sound, it makes sense, partly because we are traveling for the same reasons (seeing sights like the Angkor temples, enjoying food in India, etc), but also because we tend to have the same threshold. After 4 total days hiking around temples in over 95 degree heat, substantial humidity, and most of all, punishing (that IS the right word) sunshine, we both where "templed out" in a major way.

But I digress. Before we did all this, I was trying to find us a good guide and/or driver for all of this. Now, it's not as if it's hard to find either, with people shouting such services at you from every street corner in town. But what about credibility, english skills, and experience? I was trying to contact a guide recommended on an internet site, so I needed to call him. It was perhaps 10pm and since we don't have our own cell phone set up in cambodia, I needed to walk to any of the "phone booths" you can find on the street, which have an aluminum and plexiglas box which looks like a phone booth, but is to small to actually stand in, and is often filled with junk anyway. However, somewhere nearby to all of these, you will find somebody willing to charge you around 500 riel per minute to use their cell phone. Usually this person is involved in a shop or some other business.

So, I go out to make this call, Tiffany stays in the hotel room where it is cooler and cleaner as there is no need for her to come along. I need to walk only about 600m to the phone booth. I am wearing REI-ish pants and an orange t-shirt with no printing, as I recall. very "normal". so, I walk out of the hotel and immediately, as expected, a moto driver asks me if I want a ride "moto, moto?" I respond "no, thank you, just walking". He comes a little closer "You want smoke?" and again "no, thanks" I hadn't gotten this one before but had heard that many moto drivers would know where to find pot. Next, "you want girl tonight?" I laugh..~> read more

 "No, thank you" and apparently he has run out of his script.

In Bangkok and Phnom Penh and to a lesser extent Siem Reap you see a lot of western men, usually between their late 40s and early 60s, out at restaurants and bars with khmer (cambodian) or thai young ladies (early 20s usually). The lady is their "date" though it is quite unlikely they aren't being paid. It is also hard to miss the massage parlors around town, particularly in siem reap, which according to our lonely planet guidebook are rarely 100% "above board" so to speak. However, there are many tourists seeking a foot massage after the temple hikes. There are also a number of bars that "freelancers" (prostitutes sans madame) hang out at to pick up business. Whatever our judgements on this, it is certainly present.

Anyhow, I walk past the shady karaoke-massage place on our street (yes, really) past a few more offers from moto drivers, past another massage place and a gay oriented western owned place that I think offers food and booze as well as massage ???, and I spot a public phone booth. Great! However, you need a prepaid phone card to use the booth. ok, there is a sign next to the booth pointing directly in between two storefronts saying "prepaid card sold here". One storefront seems to be a bar, but here in SE asia you really can't rule out a bar selling prepaid phone cards. the other store is closed, but there's a lady sitting out front on a bench. I approach the lady, asking about phone cards. she isn't understanding me, but beckons me closer. I come over and say it again. still no luck, but she strokes my arm sensually. Huh. There is a moto-driver or security guard coming over, so I bring him over to the sign and just point to it, because it says "phone card here" in khmer as well. "no, no" sounds like the place is closed. ok, so now I'm noticing that the bar has way too many ladies hanging out near the front. uh-huh. time to find another phone booth. as I walk away a young lady sitting on a motorbike strokes my arm again, saying something nice. I think this one might have been a lady-boy but that's another story and certainly a tough call.

So yeah, on down the street. 30m further and I see the plexi-aluminum non-phonebooth I'm seeking. turns out the phone owner runs a fruit stand here. she motions for me to sit down. doesn't speak a bit of english but I have the phone number printed out on paper. we dial. it rings a bit then tones I don't recognize. huh. she seems to want me to wait. OK, I don't need to leave right away. Pretty soon, an attractive middle aged khmer lady with a tight tank top and red underwear sticking out the top of her jeans (in the front) comes up and starts arguing/asking about how ripe various durian sitting there are. I look behind me to see a stack of durian husks, now that must be where the somewhat vomitous smell is coming from. A western guy in his late 40s, (I think american) that looks like he has smoked a dump truck full of weed and cigarettes at led zeppelin concerts shows up, with a pushy-acting khmer girl in her 20s. she seems to want to show off how cheaply she can buy fruit. red-underwear-in-the-front lady gets into a conversation with the (other) pushy girl. Seems to be an argument but those high sharp springy tones in the khmer language could make a friendly greeting sound like an argument.

we try the phone number one more time, same tones. A younger khmer guy comes over and listens. He tells me in great english that the mobile phone I am calling is probably turned off. OK, maybe my guide has gone to bed. I thank the english speaker and the fruit lady and head back, moving quickly past "zanzi bar" which I now suspect to be a freelancer joint.

However, I was quite done yet. As I was about to dip into the hotel gate, a moto driver pulled up. "Massage...Boom Boom!...Massage Boom Boom!?!?!

What can you buy for a US Dollar anymore?

Well, not much, where it's printed. But if you're in Cambodia, quite a lot! You see, Cambodia uses primarily the US Dollar as currency, even though next door neighbor Thailand, for example, has its own currency system (Baht) as you would expect. $1 buys 2 hours at an internet cafe in Phnom Penh (but only 1 hour if the cafe has A/C. A single G.W. can also net you 8 1 liter bottles of water, believe it or not. If you're in the mood for fruit, you can easily get 2 full pineapples, perfectly cut to remove the hard core and those annoying fibrous dimples around the outside, for a single buck. To rent a 100cc Scooter (the primary mode of transportation for everyone) you'll need 3 of the smallest U.S. greenback, and to stay in a nice hotel room with TV, fridge, sometimes DVD player, and hot water, you'll need 8, 12 if you want to turn on the A/C (which is impossible to resist sometimes).

However, anything less than a dollar is guaranteed to be handled in an entirely different currency. oh no, you won't find quarters, dimes, or any coin, in fact, around here.~> read more

 While the official exchange rate isn't exact, everyone treats 1 USD as 4000 cambodian riel. Therefore, if you want to buy a Coca cola (a bit of a luxury around here, though beer can be the same price), you'll need 2 1000 riel bills to cover the $.50 price that may be marked in the cooler. You'll also find 500 riel bills quite commonly (worth 12.5 cents each), and even 100 riel bills, which are equivalent to 2.5 cents. these bills look like it cost well over 2.5 cents to print them, they are usually quite nice in contrast to some of the other denominations. Again, no coins at all, in fact, when we got into the more touristed town of Siem Reap, a restaurant tried to farm off a quarter on us probably left by an american tourist to angkor wat. Fat chance, that quarter went straight into the tip.

The final complication is that the government is for some reason still printing 5000 and 10000 riel notes, though we haven't seen anything larger than that. These bills are 1.25 and 2.50 respectively. Also, since there isn't a reserve bank to exchange old USD notes as there is in the US, you have to be extremely careful not to accept a bill in change with even the slightest tear, even if the tear is sneakily taped, as we once had, because nobody will accept it. Older, distressed bills can face the same problem but are easier to spot.

Therefore, you might imagine that when you get a bill for 2.90, and you can pay it with:

two US dollars, three 1000 riel notes, one 500 riel note, and one 100 riel note

or, if you have the riel, it's better to use that, so:

one 10000 riel note (or 2 5000 notes), one 1000 riel note, one 500 riel note, and 1 100 riel note

but if you only have one 5000 riel note, it's:

one US dollar, one 5000 riel note, 2 1000 riel notes, one 500 riel note, and 1 100 riel note.

It can be a riel challenge to manage all of those bills!

How we take photos

This isn't a description of where we've been, or the people we've seen. But since you've probably looked at many of our photos, I wanted to say a few things about the way we take them.

Namely, we take them together! No, I don't mean the photos with the two of us in them, I mean we hand the camera back and forth to take a few shots. We have 1 "body" and 4 lenses, and we're certainly not going to carry double that! We find it's pretty easy to share, when one of us gets an idea the other is more than happy to hand it over.

So, how can you tell who took a given photo? The short answer is, you can't. You might have made the assumption that I take all of them, with Tiffany handling most of the prose on this site. However, while I take more than half of the photos, I think she takes more than half of the good ones.

In any case, it's a collaborative effort, and if you see an interesting or fun photo, you can rest assured we took it together, no matter who was directly behind the lens!

all our photos from this trip: http://bitjug.com/gallery/AsiaTrip

Short Gallery from Phnom Penh

I wanted to post a short gallery of photos we took in Phnom Penh; don't miss the dead chickens!

http://bitjug.com/gallery/PhnomPenh

Sunday, February 05, 2006

Lucky not to be on the menu



...but perhaps not so lucky otherwise.

You may have heard from other travelers to India. Cows are EVERYWHERE. They are, of course, sacred to the Hindus and therefore have "free reign". We read that they were treated somewhat as pets, but it is not often that you see these urban cows being taken care of. Seeing them eat garbage is the toughest part, and you see it all the time.

here's a short gallery with a few other strange photos of cows in india:

http://bitjug.com/gallery/Cows

Indian Trains

This photo doesn't really fit anywhere else, but I wanted to post it to show what an indian train is like:



Items to note are: The versatility of the sari (pod woman sleeping), the open-ness of the train car (no private cabins at all), the triple-stack facing accomodations (there is a second level that folds up above the pod woman, the gentlemen facing each other are in a higher class that is only a 2-stack), lots of blue vinyl, and tiffany's feet resting on the pod's bunk. It is not considered polite to put your feet on the floor because it is viewed as dirty.

Saturday, February 04, 2006

A queston of Moustache



As we made our way through southern india, up the west coast, then to northern india, we certainly noticed a lot of moustaches on men. This was of course popular in the US in the 70s, but isn't very popular now so it caught our attention in India.

Per the title of this post, our "question of moustache" was, why is it so popular in India? We don't see it as so flattering (see picture above), but we certainly acknowledge that ideals of beauty vary widely across cultures. However, we never really got an answer to this question. However, we did find that in the north, today's Rajastanis in particular have a rich heritage of moustache-wearing from the Rajputs, provincial warlords of sorts that ruled in Rajastan, in the east they were conquered by the Mughals (or at least allied with them), but in Udaipur the Rajputs held out until the British rule. Please forgive if my Rajastan history isn't perfect. The Rajputs certainly wore moustaches, as even their symbol shows:



In any case, even today, in the tradition of the Rajputs and their kings (the Maharajas), an issue of honour is referred to in the hindi language as "a question of moustache!"

You are invited to view a few modern and historical moustaches we viewed along the way:

http://bitjug.com/gallery/Moustaches

Friday, February 03, 2006

Photos from Jaipur!

We are catching up a bit on the blog, and now have some photos from Jaipur to share. A couple of examples:

The hawa mahal:



a water palace:



and some new "friends":



please view the rest here!: http://bitjug.com/gallery/Jaipur